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Student Artwork Guide

Evening ensemble

Name Class Date

Elsa Schiaparelli, Evening ensemble (1937), Metropolitan Museum of Art. Reproduced for reference; rights reserved by the rights holder.

The facts

Artist
Elsa Schiaparelli artsdot.com/en/artists/elsa-schiaparelli/
Artist’s dates
1890 – 1973
Painted
1937
Medium
Textile
Original size
12 x 22 cm
Movement
Surrealist Innovation
Held at
Metropolitan Museum of Art artsdot.com/en/museums/metropolitan-museum-of-art-new-york/
Artistic style
Bold color, luxurious texture
Influences
Islamic studies, Astronomy
Notable elements or techniques
Metallic threads woven throughout
Subject or theme
Mysterious forest

In context

Evening ensemble — Elsa Schiaparelli

How big is it?

The original measures 12 × 22 cm (height × width), drawn here beside an adult of average height.

When was this painted?

  1. 1890
  2. 1900
  3. 1910
  4. 1920
  5. 1930
  6. 1940
  7. 1950
  8. 1960
  9. 1970

Shaded: the lifetime of Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) ▲ this work, 1937

Compare with

Pick one work above: name two things it shares with this one, and one thing that's different.

More works to set beside this one: artsdot.com/en/art/similar/elsa-schiaparelli-evening-ensemble-D3SNW2-en/

Colours

Measured from the image

    Main colour

    White #e8e8e2

    Catalogued palette

    • #E8E8E2
    • #316049
    • #1D3A2C
    • #CBC8C1
    Palette
    Neutrals The dominant colour family in the image.
    Main colour name
    White
    Intensity
    Monochromatic How saturated and varied the colours are, from a single toned-down hue to many bright ones.
    Contrast
    Statement How much the colours differ in lightness and saturation across the picture.
    Harmony
    Softly Mixed Palette How well the colours work together, from clashing to fully unified.
    Brightness
    Brilliant How light or dark the picture reads overall, from deep shadow to bright highlight.
    Saturation
    Muted How pure and strong the colours are, from near-grey to fully vivid.

    About this artwork

    Evening ensemble — Elsa Schiaparelli

    Evening Ensemble

    The “Evening Ensemble,” crafted by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1937, stands as a testament to the designer’s unwavering commitment to challenging conventions and injecting fantastical elements into haute couture. This remarkable garment—a collaboration between Schiaparelli and André Perugia—captures the spirit of Surrealism at its zenith, embodying a daring fusion of opulent texture and subversive visual language.

    At first glance, the dress itself is deceptively simple: a sleek sheath gown constructed from deep purple velvet. However, beneath this luxurious surface lies a masterful illusion. Schiaparelli employed a technique known as “trompe l’œil,” cleverly utilizing metallic threads woven throughout the fabric to create an ethereal shimmer that mimics the dappled light filtering through a dense forest canopy. This subtle textural manipulation elevates the garment beyond mere drapery, transforming it into an immersive sensory experience.

    Complementing the gown is Perugia’s jacket—a bold declaration of color and ornamentation. Embroidered with intricate floral motifs in shades of gold and yellow satin, it defies traditional notions of elegance. The embroidery isn't merely decorative; it speaks to Schiaparelli’s fascination with botanical imagery and her exploration of natural forms within an artistic framework. These flowers are stylized, almost abstracted, mirroring the Surrealist preoccupation with dreamlike landscapes and distorted perspectives.

    The ensemble’s significance extends beyond its aesthetic qualities. It reflects Schiaparelli's broader artistic vision—a rejection of academic formalism in favor of imaginative storytelling. Inspired by her upbringing amidst intellectual luminaries like her father, Celestino Schiaparelli, a scholar of Islamic studies and Sanskrit, Elsa embraced influences from diverse cultures and esoteric traditions.

    Furthermore, the dress’s provenance adds to its allure. Millicent Rogers, a celebrated Southwestern Native American artist and philanthropist, gifted her entire wardrobe—including this iconic piece—to the Brooklyn Museum. This donation ensured that “Evening Ensemble” would be preserved for posterity, allowing future generations to appreciate Schiaparelli's groundbreaking contribution to fashion history.

    Today, reproductions of “Evening Ensemble” continue to inspire designers and collectors alike. Its enduring appeal lies in its ability to transport the viewer into a realm of imaginative beauty—a celebration of color, texture, and artistic innovation that solidified Elsa Schiaparelli’s place as one of the most influential figures in 20th-century art.

    Artist and museum

    Artist

    Elsa Schiaparelli

    Born in Rome, Italy

    A Rebel Spirit in Haute Couture: The World of Elsa Schiaparelli

    Elsa Luisa Maria Schiaparelli, a name synonymous with audacious style and surrealist innovation, irrevocably altered the landscape of 20th-century fashion. Born into an aristocratic Roman family in 1890, her life was anything but conventional. Unlike many of her contemporaries who embraced established societal norms, Schiaparelli possessed a fiercely independent spirit, fueled by intellectual curiosity and a penchant for challenging expectations. Her father, Celestino Schiaparelli, a renowned scholar of Islamic studies and Sanskrit, cultivated an environment rich in learning, while her uncle, the astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli – famed for his observations of Martian “canals” – sparked within her a lifelong fascination with the cosmos and the unconventional. This unique upbringing instilled a love for art, mythology, and esoteric thought that would profoundly shape her aesthetic vision. Early rebellious tendencies manifested not only in defying societal expectations but also in a tumultuous personal life, including a marriage to the enigmatic Wilhelm de Kerlor, a self-proclaimed psychic whose influence further propelled her into a world of spiritualism and occult practices – themes that subtly permeated her later designs.

    From Knitwear to Surrealist Statements: The Rise of a Fashion House

    Schiaparelli’s journey into the world of fashion was initially pragmatic, born from dissatisfaction with existing styles. She began by experimenting with knitwear in the late 1920s, recognizing a gap in the market for comfortable yet sophisticated clothing. In 1927, she established her own fashion house in Paris, quickly expanding beyond knitwear to encompass a full range of haute couture designs. However, it was during the 1930s that Schiaparelli truly came into her own, forging groundbreaking collaborations with leading artists of the Surrealist movement. This period marked a radical departure from the prevailing elegance of Parisian fashion, characterized by flowing silhouettes and understated glamour. Schiaparelli’s designs were deliberately provocative, playful, and often unsettling, embracing the absurd and challenging conventional notions of beauty. Her partnership with Salvador Dalí proved particularly fruitful, resulting in iconic creations like the Lobster Dress (1937), featuring a vibrant lobster painted onto silk, and the Shoe Hat (1938), a whimsical headpiece shaped like a high-heeled shoe. Jean Cocteau also contributed significantly to her work, designing striking embroidery and accessories that further enhanced the surrealist aesthetic.

    Shocking Pink and Trompe-l'œil: Defining a Unique Aesthetic

    Schiaparelli’s designs were instantly recognizable for their bold use of color, most notably her signature “shocking pink” – a vibrant, almost aggressive hue that defied the muted palettes favored by many of her contemporaries. This audacious choice became emblematic of her rebellious spirit and her determination to challenge established norms. Beyond color, Schiaparelli masterfully employed trompe-l'œil effects, creating illusions that blurred the boundaries between art and fashion. She incorporated unexpected materials into her designs – leather, metal, even newspaper print – pushing the limits of textile innovation. Her collections often drew inspiration from mythology, nature, and everyday objects, transforming them into wearable works of art. The Circus Collection of 1938 stands as a testament to this playful approach, featuring theatrical costumes adorned with whimsical motifs and exaggerated silhouettes. An Evening Coat from 1936 showcased her daring use of leather in high fashion, demonstrating her willingness to experiment with unconventional materials. Schiaparelli didn’t simply design clothes; she created immersive experiences that captivated the imagination and challenged perceptions.

    Legacy and Revival: An Enduring Influence

    Despite facing financial difficulties and a decline in popularity after World War II, Elsa Schiaparelli's influence on fashion remains undeniable. She paved the way for future designers to embrace artistic collaborations and push creative boundaries. Her innovative use of materials, her playful approach to design, and her fearless experimentation continue to inspire contemporary artists and fashion houses. Her work is featured in prominent museums worldwide, including the Kyoto Costume Institute and the Victoria and Albert Museum, solidifying her place in fashion history. The Maison Schiaparelli, after decades of dormancy, was re-established in 2014, demonstrating the enduring appeal of her visionary designs. This revival has brought her avant-garde spirit to a new generation, proving that her legacy extends far beyond the confines of the mid-20th century. Elsa Schiaparelli’s true innovation lay not just in creating beautiful clothes but in redefining fashion as an art form – a bold statement that continues to resonate today.

    Key Works and Collections

    Circus Collection (1938): A dazzling display of innovative design featuring theatrical costumes and whimsical motifs.

    Evening Coat (1936): An example of her use of unconventional materials like leather in high fashion.

    Lobster Dress (1937): A collaboration with Salvador Dalí, showcasing a lobster image printed on silk.

    Shoe Hat (1938): Another iconic creation by Schiaparelli and Dalí, a hat shaped like a shoe.

    Museum

    Metropolitan Museum of Art

    On show in new york, United States of America

    A Legacy Etched in Stone and Light: Exploring The Metropolitan Museum of Art

    The Metropolitan Museum of Art isn’t merely a repository of beautiful objects; it's a sprawling narrative of human creativity, a testament to our enduring impulse to shape, interpret, and express the world around us. Founded in 1870 by a group of visionary New Yorkers who believed art should be universally accessible—a radical notion at the time—The Met now stands as one of the largest and most comprehensive museums globally. Its Fifth Avenue façade beckons visitors into a realm spanning five millennia and countless cultures, offering an unparalleled journey through time where echoes of ancient civilizations resonate alongside the bold innovations of modern masters.

    A Monument to Grandeur: Architecture and Atmosphere

    To truly appreciate The Met is to understand its physical presence as integral to its identity. The primary building itself—a magnificent embodiment of Beaux-Arts style completed between 1902 and 1914—exudes an air of classical grandeur. Colossal columns frame the entrance, inviting visitors into soaring galleries bathed in natural light; a fitting stage for the masterpieces within. This monumental structure, deliberately designed as a homage to European palaces, speaks to the ambition and vision of its architects, creating a space that feels both imposing and welcoming. Yet, The Met’s architectural narrative doesn't end there. The juxtaposition with The Cloisters, a remarkable sanctuary located uptown in Fort Tryon Park, reveals the museum’s core mission: to present art within a context that enhances its meaning. While Fifth Avenue embodies scale and universality, The Cloisters offers an intimate serenity, transporting visitors to medieval Europe through reconstructed chapels and gardens—a deliberate contrast reflecting a profound understanding of how environment shapes perception and fosters deeper engagement with artistic expression.

    Echoes Through Time: Treasures Across Cultures

    Within the hallowed halls of The Met, one can almost feel the weight of centuries past. Ancient Echoes resonate powerfully; visitors are captivated by the imposing Assyrian reliefs, depicting scenes of royal power and divine ritual—intricate narratives carved into stone that transport us to a world of emperors and gods. These monumental panels, often adorned with vibrant colors remarkably preserved over millennia, offer a glimpse into the complex political and religious beliefs of ancient civilizations. Equally compelling are the Greek sculptures, embodying idealized form and proportion, offering timeless representations of beauty and human potential. The Parthenon Marbles, for example, stand as enduring symbols of classical artistry and democratic ideals.

    But The Met’s treasures extend far beyond the Western canon. Remarkable collections of Asian art—including exquisite Chinese ceramics, each piece a testament to centuries of craftsmanship, and intricate Japanese screens, meticulously painted with scenes of nature and mythology—sit alongside significant holdings in African, Oceanic, and American art. Consider, for instance, the delicate brushstrokes of a Ming dynasty vase, the vibrant colors of a Navajo textile, or the powerful symbolism embedded within an ancient Egyptian amulet—each a glimpse into the vast richness of human creativity across continents and time.

    Moments of Artistic Resonance: From Manet to Rembrandt and Beyond

    Throughout its history, The Met has hosted groundbreaking exhibitions that have reshaped our understanding of art history and culture. A visit wouldn’t be complete without experiencing Édouard Manet’s Boating, capturing leisure on the Seine with its serene Impressionist style—a pivotal work in the transition from realism to modernism. The painting, a vibrant depiction of Parisian life, invites viewers to contemplate the changing social landscape of the 19th century through its masterful use of light and color. Or contemplating Rembrandt's self-portrait from 1660, a poignant exploration of chiaroscuro revealing the artist’s introspection during a challenging period. The painting’s dramatic use of light and shadow creates a sense of psychological depth, inviting viewers to contemplate the complexities of human experience.

    Preserving Heritage, Embracing Innovation

    Recognizing the importance of accessibility, The Met has embraced innovative technologies to enhance the visitor experience – offering virtual tours, interactive mobile apps, and engaging educational programs. Initiatives like “Met Moments” foster a sense of community among art lovers worldwide, encouraging dialogue and shared interpretation. Furthermore, dedicated conservation laboratories safeguard artworks across its collection, ensuring their preservation for future generations. The museum’s commitment to both preserving the past and engaging with the present ensures that The Met will continue to be a vital center for artistic exploration and appreciation for centuries to come—a timeless sanctuary where creativity transcends boundaries and inspires awe.

    Where to read more

    Find this online

    QR code linking to the download page for Evening ensemble

    artsdot.com/en/art/download/elsa-schiaparelli-evening-ensemble-D3SNW2-en/

    Cite this artwork

    MLA
    Schiaparelli, Elsa. Evening ensemble. 1937, Metropolitan Museum of Art. https://artsdot.com/en/art/elsa-schiaparelli-evening-ensemble-D3SNW2-en/
    APA
    Schiaparelli, Elsa (1937). Evening ensemble [Painting]. Metropolitan Museum of Art. https://artsdot.com/en/art/elsa-schiaparelli-evening-ensemble-D3SNW2-en/
    Chicago
    Elsa Schiaparelli. Evening ensemble. 1937. Metropolitan Museum of Art. https://artsdot.com/en/art/elsa-schiaparelli-evening-ensemble-D3SNW2-en/
    Harvard
    Schiaparelli, Elsa (1937) Evening ensemble. Metropolitan Museum of Art. Available at: https://artsdot.com/en/art/elsa-schiaparelli-evening-ensemble-D3SNW2-en/

    Look closely

    Evening ensemble — Elsa Schiaparelli

    Look closely

    Answer in your own words. There are no wrong answers here — only answers you can explain.

    1. What catches your eye first, and why?
    2. Which colours or shapes create the mood — and what is that mood?
    3. Our catalogue files this work under: fashion design, surrealism, textile art. Do you agree? What would you add, or take away?
    4. Look back at The Tears Dress (1938), earlier in this guide. Name two things it shares with this work, and one that is different.
    5. Elsa Schiaparelli was about 47 when this was made. What in it looks like the work of an artist at that stage?

    Your response

    Write a short paragraph about this artwork. Use the facts from the earlier parts of this guide, and your answers above.

    Art quiz

    Evening ensemble — Elsa Schiaparelli

    How well do you know this artwork?

    Tick one answer for each of the 5 questions below. Each has exactly one correct answer.

    1. 1. What is the predominant color scheme of Elsa Schiaparelli’s ‘Evening Ensemble’?

      • A Pale Lavender
      • B Deep Crimson
      • C Rich Emerald Green
    2. 2. The dress features a textile technique similar to which traditional weaving method?

      • A Tatami Mat Weave
      • B Kilim Rug Weave
      • C Ikkat Weave
    3. 3. Where was Elsa Schiaparelli’s ‘Evening Ensemble’ originally housed before it was donated to the Brooklyn Museum?

      • A The Musée Rodin
      • B The Château de Versailles
      • C The Brooklyn Museum
    4. 4. What material is used for the jacket of ‘Evening Ensemble’?

      • A Silk Satin
      • B Velvet
      • C Organdy
    5. 5. The image depicts the dress being showcased in a museum exhibition focused on...

      • A Modern Art Movements
      • B Costume Collections
      • C Sculptural Installations

    My score: ____ out of 5

    Answer key — for the teacher

    This starts a fresh printed page, so it can simply be left out of the copies.

    1C · 2C · 3C · 4A · 5B